Budgie BreedingBefore breeding any species, it is important to learn as much about the animals, their personalities and the best practices to follow for responsible and ethical breeding prior to making the commitment to take on the responsibility.
Hi everyone! It’s been quite some time since I’ve been on. Well anyways, I have Show English Budgies that I’ve gotten into. I’ve handfed and raised birds for years and helped at aviaries for over a decade, however, I have never had to raise a hatchling chick.
The hen, stopped incubating when he was pipping and there was one other fertile egg. Well Saturday when I checked in the evening, she had broken the egg that wasn’t pipping and the baby died. I touched the other one and it was cold to the touch... I tried candling it and there wasn’t activity and the pipping didn’t get any larger. I thought he were dead too.
I decided to warm the egg up for a bit in my hands and after about half an hour, I candled and there was movement! He fully hatched on Sunday. I increased humidity and that seemed to help and was on a heating pad.
Fast forward to day 3! I have a question about his feeding times. I was feeding every hour, through the night, for days 1 and 2 but since his formula is a thicker consistency I’ve been feeding every 2-3 hours depending on whether his crop is empty or not. Now my question is, when does he need the night break? I don’t want to overfeed him and I don’t want him to get sour crop being so delicate.
Thank you so much! He’s a little fighter I think. So I’ve been doing my best to make sure he stays healthy. I’ve attached some picture of him from the last few days. I have him in a little container to make sure humidity keeps up and it’s easier for him to stay warm on the heating pad. I’ll move him to a larger one as he grows.
Thank you both! He seems to be doing fine today as well. He’s grown a bit and is looking good. He’s on day 5 now. I did thin his formula down just a little to make digestion easier and so his crop empties more easily, he was having his crop still a little full after 3 hours so instead of 1 part formula to 2 parts water, he seems to do better on 1 part formula to 3 parts water. The formula changes the consistency soon but I’m going to gauge how he does for the day then gradually increase it back up.
I was wondering however, his eyes don’t appear fully black, I’ve never noticed this before in other chicks. I know his mom is carrying the ino gene due to her flecking. But dad I don’t think he does carry the gene. They’re both spangled. In the picture of the pair I switched the male out to my green spangled male instead of the yellow faced blue male. My green may be split to blue but this is both of their first clutch so I’m not definitive on if he is or not.
I don’t breed, and am not an expert on mutations; but depending on the mutation I know they can be born with eyes that aren’t dark black. Hopefully our breeders will see this post and offer more details.
If both parents are spangles then it could be a double factor spangle, and they are one of the varieties that ca have plum eyes rather than black. There are a few others also.
As the ino gene is sex-linked it can't be carried in hens, if they have the gene then they will be ino. So the hen can't be carrying ino. Even if a cock is carrying ino there are no visual signs though. Your hen does look to have some heavy melanin around her face, but usually flecking is just extra spots of melanin on the forehead and face of opalines. She looks like she may be spangle opaline, like the cock is, so the chick is going to be opaline also.