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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
My new little guy keeps doing a couple of weird things. hes not tame yet but he doesn't seem to mind being handled, he allows me to pick him up with minimal struggle. he got out the cage a couple times and i kind of just let him explore. but now when hes in his cage, if hes not resting hes usually climbing about for long periods, pacing up and down the bottom near the clear part of the cage. or hes spending about 20~ minutes climbing in and out through the holes of his ladder.

i've had him for about 6 days now, as family bought him for me to help get over the loss of my other little one. and seeing as my little girl momo died not even a week before i got this guy. i'm quite naturally very very paranoid/worried on every small odd thing i see.

[nomedia="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0iKVRprQ6tc&feature=youtu.be"]Normal behaviour? - YouTube[/nomedia]
heres a quick 10 second clip of the behaviour i'm talking about. he is still doing this as i type. is this normal? is there a reason? should i discourage it? and if so, how?
 

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In looking at the video I don't see anything to help him get off the bottom of the cage, since there are no bars at the bottom there does not appear to be any way for him to climb back up and if the wings are clipped the nearest perch may be to far for him to jump to, this may be frustrating for him. I would angle the ladder so the bottom of the ladder is on the bottom of the cage so he has an easy way to get back to the perch. He needs a way to use his energy, do you have any toys in his cage, such as a swing and a bell or toys to shred? Also birds like to be up high so I would make sure that you have a perch or two in his cage near the top third of the cage space, it does not look like there is anything there in the video but I can only see a portion of the cage.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
In looking at the video I don't see anything to help him get off the bottom of the cage, since there are no bars at the bottom there does not appear to be any way for him to climb back up and if the wings are clipped the nearest perch may be to far for him to jump to, this may be frustrating for him. I would angle the ladder so the bottom of the ladder is on the bottom of the cage so he has an easy way to get back to the perch. He needs a way to use his energy, do you have any toys in his cage, such as a swing and a bell or toys to shred? Also birds like to be up high so I would make sure that you have a perch or two in his cage near the top third of the cage space, it does not look like there is anything there in the video but I can only see a portion of the cage.
hes not clipped, he just flaps once and hops back up. also he climbs up pretty easily even without that, he just grabs onto one of the lower bars and pulls himself up.

heres a pic of the full cage layout to show what he has
a long ring toy with a bell at the bottom, a couple bells on a chain,
a moderately big swing with bells and the lot on it,
a little mirror, a flat wood perch with a small ladder, and even a little ball at the bottom.
he doesnt seem to care much for the toys and just spends 80% of the time climbing around or pacing at the bottom.
 

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I agree with Cody that the ladder should be placed so the bottom rests on the floor of the cage to make it easier for your bird to climb up if he so desires.

I also recommend you remove the mirror from the cage.
It is not recommended to have mirrors in your bird's cage as interacting with the mirror can contribute to your budgie becoming aggressive and/or territorial.
Additionally, some budgies will begin regurgitating to the mirror to the point where they actually become malnourished. You would be better off to give him shredding toys instead.

The "pacing" back and forth is your budgie acting as if he wants to get out of the cage.
This sideways pacing can* become an obsessive behavior in some birds.

Generally, it is best that you not try to touch your budgie for the first two weeks.
He needs time to settle into his new environment and become comfortable with his new surroundings.
Budgies are often submissive for the first few days simply because they are terrified. :(

You can cover the top and three sides of the cage to help the budgie feel more secure. Playing music for him when you aren't around will be helpful as well. Budgies perceive no noise as meaning there may be danger.

Taming and Bonding is all about helping your budgie learn to trust you and it takes a great deal of time and patience on your part.
You should never grab your budgie or force him to be touched.
To bond with your budgie, you need to build his trust in you.
He will have to learn over time that you will not hurt him, grab him and try to force him to allow you to hold him.

To build your budgie's trust, sit by his cage and read, talk or sing quietly to him for a period of at least 10-15 minutes, 3 or 4 times day. After the 2nd or 3rd day, rest your hand on the outside of the cage when you talk to him so he'll learn that your hand is safe and will not hurt him .

After a week, rest your hand inside the cage when you talk.
Don't make sudden moves, don't try to touch him .
Let him get used to the idea that the hand is now in his safe place and not harming him .

After 2 weeks, begin moving your hand slowly toward your budgie. If he becomes agitated, stop moving your hand and just hold very still until he calms down. When he's comfortable with your hand near him , you can offer him a bit of millet or a few seeds. In a few more days, you can begin your taming and bonding sessions.

Always work at your budgie's pace.
Move slowly and talk reassuringly and calmly whenever you interact with him .

Most budgies once they pass the "baby" stage, do not like to be petted or touched.
If your budgie does like to be petted, you should only ever pet his head, neck or chest area.
Stroking a budgie's back and/or tail stimulates its breeding instinct. Bonding means allowing them to choose to be with you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·

You would be better off to give him shredding toys instead.

The "pacing" back and forth is your budgie acting as if he wants to get out of the cage.
This sideways pacing can* become an obsessive behavior in some birds.

What kind of "Shredding toys" would you recommend?

and if it was to become an obsessive behaviour, is there a way to deter it? should i cover the outside of the clear plastic part with masking tape or something?
 

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Shredding toys such as the following are good. Keep in mind that it's best to comparison shop - you will find better prices than on some of the toys than what is listed in these links. I'm simply including the links to give you ideas of the type toys I'd recommend.

Bird Kabob
Pinata
Spinner Sticks
Munch Balls
(I'd look for natural munch balls rather than the dyed ones, personally)
Pinata Pineapple

Resource Directory

I believe that once your budgie has settled in and you are giving him regular and consistent daily out of cage time, then the pacing will most probably stop. If not, we'll try to address the problem at that time.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Shredding toys such as the following are good. Keep in mind that it's best to comparison shop - you will find better prices than on some of the toys than what is listed in these links. I'm simply including the links to give you ideas of the type toys I'd recommend.

Bird Kabob
Pinata
Spinner Sticks
Munch Balls
(I'd look for natural munch balls rather than the dyed ones, personally)
Pinata Pineapple

Resource Directory

I believe that once your budgie has settled in and you are giving him regular and consistent daily out of cage time, then the pacing will most probably stop. If not, we'll try to address the problem at that time.
i put some masking tape over that plastic part because my grandfather said i should try it, he stopped that instantly, but now he keeps trying to flip his food bowl. should i let him out the cage to burn some energy even though hes not tame yet? should i just ignore the behaviour until he settles in?
 

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It does sound like he has a lot of pent up energy. It is a bit soon to be letting him out, it would be good if he would at least step up onto a perch before you let him out, in case you have to retrieve him from somewhere, you don't want to be chasing him trying to catch him. If you let him out of the cage make sure it is in a bird safe space. No open doors, windows, or toilets, nothing on the stove, no ceiling fans in operation, no mirrors that he can crash into, best to have curtains or something on the windows to prevent him from crashing into them. His flying may be very erratic at first, he will need time to acclimate to the space and it may not be easy to get him back in the cage. Eventually he will go back to his cage on his own, as that is where the food is and his safe place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
It does sound like he has a lot of pent up energy. It is a bit soon to be letting him out, it would be good if he would at least step up onto a perch before you let him out, in case you have to retrieve him from somewhere, you don't want to be chasing him trying to catch him. If you let him out of the cage make sure it is in a bird safe space. No open doors, windows, or toilets, nothing on the stove, no ceiling fans in operation, no mirrors that he can crash into, best to have curtains or something on the windows to prevent him from crashing into them. His flying may be very erratic at first, he will need time to acclimate to the space and it may not be easy to get him back in the cage. Eventually he will go back to his cage on his own, as that is where the food is and his safe place.
Thanks. i'll try to refrain from letting him out until he at least has some basic trust with me. hes a very energetic little guy i gotta admit, i finally thought of a name for him today so hopefully we can start properly bonding.
 
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